India Runway Week (IRW) is an Indian fashion event organized by the Indian Federation for Fashion Development (IFFD). It mainly focuses on talented, young designers. The 4th edition of IRW, which took place from the 10th until the 13th of April in New Delhi, India, was a great success. The Youngest Fashion Movement is lead by the IFFD directors Kiran Kheva and Aviinash K Pathania. I sat down with them to ask more about India Runway Week.

The aim of IRW is to support young designers, could you tell us a little bit more about this?

Kiran Kheva – India Runway Week is a platform created to promote tomorrow’s designers today, IRW celebrates fresh fashion by young talent and provides them an opportunity to share the same platform with senior established names from the fashion fraternity. This is the only fashion trade event in India which is presenting young designers.

What type of support does IRW give to young designers?

Kiran Kheva – Our team remains in touch with the designers throughout the whole process; from the creation of their collection to the organization of their runway showcases. We help them with their theme, their color choices and we help them combine creativity with economics, because at the end of the day their collection should be sellable. Before the event we also assign stylists to the New Gen(eration) and budding designers who help them present their collection on the ramp.

‘India Runway Week is a platform created to promote tomorrow’s designers today’

During IRW there are also veteran designers present who showcase their latest collections, what is their role in supporting the young designers?

Kiran Kheva – The presence of veteran designers at India Runway Week itself is a great support for young designers as sharing the backstage with veteran designers boosts the confidence of young designers. Young designers interact with them and learn from their experience. For example; Rajdeep Ranawat shared a show with Ashfaque Ahmad, Manish Gupta shared one with Mukti Tibrewal and Tanieya Khanuja shared the finale show with young designer Ambreen Khan.

This year you have worked together with the Fashionista School of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, could you tell us more about this collaboration?

Aviinash K Pathania – The summer edition of IRW 2015 was also about  encouraging the fashion education perspective and throwing light on the business of fashion. That’s why we joined hands with Fashionista School of Fashion Technology. Taking this thought ahead and in lieu of encouraging young talent, IRW had a student’s fashion show this season with the help of Fashionista. Students also learn how one designer can promote and maintain his or hers image in the industry. In the near future you will see more of such tie-ups.

Tell us more about the selection procedure of IRW, What qualities do you look for when searching for fashion talent?

Kiran Kheva – India Runway Week provides a platform for young rising talent and has attracted entries from different parts of India. The team shortlists the entries for the New Gen(eration) and budding designer shows by judging their mood boards, sketches, previous made collections and more. Then the final call is taken after interacting with the designers, we try to find out how much he or she is willing to learn.

This is the 4th edition of IRW, looking back, what has changed? What milestones have you achieved (up until now) with IRW?

Kiran Kheva – IRW is just 1.8 years old. It is easy for us to recall the 30^th August 2013 when it was born, working with only 13 designers while today in season 4 we had around 35 designers. This shows around 200% growth in just 1.8 years. Something to be proud of.

‘It is difficult for young entrepreneurs to survive. Everyone talks about youth but no one is doing anything substantial for them’ (Aviinash K Pathania on the struggles of young entrepreneurs in the world of fashion)

IRW is now known as ‘The Youngest Fashion Movement’. This year you also introduced a young team, tell us more about the team behind IRW.

Aviinash K Pathania – Our team is young and we know it’s difficult for young entrepreneurs to survive. Everyone talks about youth but no one is doing anything substantial for them. The Young Fashion Movement is one small step to give more opportunities to young talent in the field of fashion. In our young talent pool, this time IRW had Shakir Shiekh and Ketan Bhatia as show directors, James Swamy took care of backstage and Hunnar Khanna was responsible for hair and makeup. Sumiran Kabir Sharma and Mishthi Shrawan took care of styling of New Gen & Budding designer shows whereas Rishi Raj styled the grand finale show. Ashish Kumar was there for ramp & venue photography.

Looking back at the summer edition of IRW, what are the hottest trends for this season?

Kiran Kheva – Pastels, yellows, culottes, blue and white, head to toe white and denim dresses.

What advice can you give designers who want to make it big in the (Indian) fashion industry?

Aviinash K Pathania – The most important advice for young designers is that you should learn the art of mixing your creativity with the demands of the customers. If your collection is not wearable then you are going nowhere. Neatness in your design push the customer to pay that extra amount for designer wear.

‘The future of fashion is in their hands’ (Kiran Kheva on young designers)

What are the plans for IRW for the future? Where do you want to be in 5 years?

Kiran Kheva – Our future plans for IRW are all about making this platform serious with more and more buyers on board and improving, improvising this platform with each season according to the growth of fashion industry. Giving the best opportunities to our budding designers as the future of fashion is in their hands only.

Check out the gallery for footage from India Runway Week Summer Edition 2015!

Today I want to share with you, the latest collection of Indian designer Siddartha Tytler. His Spring Summer, ready-to-wear line exists of two separate collections: an Indian pret-a-porter line (featured) and a Western pret line named Chaos. Stay tuned for my favorite picks from the ‘Chaos’ collection which I will feature on The Fashion Orientalist Facebook page!

The Indian pret-a-porter line includes stunning pieces made on Khadi and Mulmul. Khadi is handspun and hand-woven cloth from India and is primarily made out of cotton. Mulmul is a soft, thin, plain weave fabric, usually made out of cotton or silk. The texture of the fabrics give the looks character and edge. They also look comfortable to wear. For this collection, Siddartha Tytler was inspired by Mughal motifs (The Mughal Empire: Persianate empire extended over large parts of the Indian subcontinent from 1526-1857) and Kashmiri motifs. The Mughal motifs are similar to those on luxurious Persian carpets, while the Kashmiri motifs are a little similar to Paisley motifs, shape wise.

Tytler recreated these motifs using modern digital printing techniques. The silhouettes, prints and colors give this collection a regal vibe. Designs fit for a ruler/empress of an empire! The silhouettes are both modern and tradition and have that signature Siddartha Tytler edge. Personally I feel Siddartha gives the Indian fashion scene some (much needed) Rock & Roll (think Lenny Kravitz) with his edgy and fierce designs. I adore the colors; the orange/red and blue or white combined with fine shimmery details here and there. Although these designs are part of a Spring-Summer collection, the colors could also easily be worn during autumn/winter and the fabrics make this collection very wearable. I love it!

Check out my five favorite designs from this collection in the gallery and let me know which one is your favorite.

Traditionally, the month of May kicked off with The Met Gala or Met Ball, an annual fundraising gala for the benefit of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York City (a real mouthful!). It marks the grand opening of the Costume Institute’s annuals fashion exhibit. This year’s theme is ‘China, through the looking glass’ an exhibit which explores the impact of Chinese aesthetics on Western fashion. As ‘The Fashion Orientalist’ this subject really interests me; the West inspired by the ‘oriental’ East. I am sure you have all seen the bold (controversial) and the beautiful of tinsel town (Hollywood) walk the red carpet during the grand opening of the exhibit. In a way I was quite disappointed with how the celebrities interpreted the theme. Stereotypical, kitsch…need I go on? The only thing covering Jennifer Lopez’s modesty was a cleverly placed, red, sequined dragon silhouette… My top favorite from the evening was Chinese actress Fan Bingbing…because who can better represent the orient, than the orient itself! She wore a gold gown with a decorated, green cape, a design by Christopher Bu. Beyond stunning!

HSY – INK

Like I said, who better to represent the Orient than the Orient itself. My top favorite collection from the 8th edition of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2015 (Pakistan) was by acclaimed couturier HSY. His collection ‘INK’ was inspired by Asia and specifically his journeys to The Land of the Rising Sun. HSY was influenced by craftsmanship from Langwaki (Malaysia), Indonesia, Nagasaki (Japan) and Yunnan (China). This collection also features the traditional dyeing techniques of Shibori from Nagasaki, Batik from Indonesia, and Gara from Sierra Leone (textiles). The designs are very dynamic. So many different influences – different layers, textures, fabrics, prints and colors all wrapped into one! The colors are bright and vivid including indigo blue, aubergine and rosette. The cultural influences are very present making this collection an oriental gem! The best thing is, that it is not kitsch at all, even though it represents many different cultures. This collection is creative, innovative and daring…praise worthy! Applause!

Photography credits: Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly

To celebrate The Fashion Orientalist’s second anniversary, I’ve organized a personal style shoot with the help of several talented people from the beauty and fashion industry. I got the opportunity to work with Indian retail brand Inanna, from which I’ve received a champagne colored saree with silver embellishments. The shoot took place outdoors in Meijendel, Wassenaar. The Meijendel dunes form one of the most important coastal areas of The Netherlands and has the most wonderful scenery! Photographer Patrick from Masque-Obscura Photography was the perfect choice for the job, as he has a lot of experience shooting fairy-tale like gowns outdoors. Hair and make-up was done by Raisa from Almira’s Beautique, she has done my hair and make-up for The Fashion Orientalist’s first personal style shoot and it is always a real pleasure to work with her. This time we wanted to add something special to the look, which is how we got in touch with Halima from Halima’s Henna, who decorated my hands with a stunning floral design (stay tuned for a post all about this Henna design!)

The look – Makeup and Hair

The idea was to go with make-up colors that complimented the saree and suited the outdoor/nature theme of the shoot. The champagne/silver saree suits the theme perfectly, a very natural shade that looks stunning with nature’s greens, the different shades of brown/sand of the dunes and the white and pastel purple shades of the flora. I kept it simple jewelry wise as the saree has enough sparkle; Swarovski earrings, a white-gold necklace with a diamond pendant, and simple silver bracelets. I chose Chanel’s ‘Tulipe Noir’ for my nails as the brown/copper shade suits the Henna very well and gives the look some edge. Due to windy weather conditions we were forced to change our first idea to go for a loose hairstyle. Raisa created a classic tie up, with curls and a silver, bejeweled hair comb. For makeup she went for different shades of pink: pastel pink for the lips, soft shades for highlights and blush, and darker grape/berry shades for the eyes.

Curious to know which products Raisa has used for this look? Check out her description below so you can recreate this look at home!

The Fashion Orientalist’s two year anniversary shoot – make up look

Products used for this look

– Pore Professional from Benefit

– MAC Face & Body C5

– MAC Conceal & Correct fluid

– Make Up Studio translucent powder

– Black Opal Stick in Olive

– MAC Concealer 3 shades mixed

– Urban Decay Primer Potion

– Kiko Cosmetics Colour Fever 101

– Inglot gel liner 77

– Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow in Chocolat & Make Up Studio eyebrow pencil in dark brown

– Blush by HEMA

– Black Opal Foundation stick in Sand & Sleek Contour Palette

– Highlighter by Make Up Revolution

– MAC lipstick please me & matching Lip liner

– MAC Fix+

We started off with a base of day cream & eye cream. Then we sprayed MAC Fix+ to moisturize the skin a bit more. After that I applied pore professional to make the skin look more ‘pore free’. I always do eyes first so I created a look with the KIKO colour fever 101. We used MAC face & body to make her face look more natural. We covered up the spots and dark circles with an orange corrector & concealer. After that we contoured & applied blush, highlighter & lipstick. And last but not least, we applied natural looking false lashes & finished off with mascara & again Fix+.

Check out more by Raisa – Almira’s Beautique on her facebook page

Images by Raisa.

To celebrate The Fashion Orientalist’s second anniversary, I organized a personal style shoot with the help of several talented people from the beauty and fashion industry. This year I wanted to add something special to my look, which is how I got in touch with Halima from Halima’s Henna. She decorated my hands with a stunning floral design. It was my first introduction to Henna and I was very pleased with Halima’s creation. It was a wonderful and calming experience. The Henna lasted a little more than one week on my skin. This ‘temporary’ tattoo is something you have to try sometime, it is great for special occasions like weddings, but is also a cool ‘accessory’ for a summer look.

Photographer Lubna from Precious Moments Photography & Design took a few beautiful shots in which she captured the Henna design. It was lovely working with both ladies.

Halima tells us a little more about Henna…

Passion

Henna is my passion. It can also be very relaxing. Whenever I am working on a design I feel calm and peaceful. It is also a creative outlet for me.

Decoration

Henna (powder) is a natural product which leaves a rich, red/brown stain on the skin. It is a beautiful and natural way to decorate your hands and feet. I draw inspiration for my designs from everyday life: items I come across or motives from clothing or jewelry or the natural environment.

Mix

I mix my Henna powder with the following ingredients: water, essential oils and sometimes a little bit of sugar. For this design I have used lavender oil, which gives it a beautiful scent.

Stay tuned for our personal style shoot…coming soon on The Fashion Orientalist!

You can find Halima’s Henna and Precious Moments Photography & Design on Facebook:

Halima’s Henna

Precious Moments Photography & Design

Effa Al Dabbagh is a Saudi fashion designer, based in Dubai. Her fashion label ‘Effa’ is a unique fusion of Middle Eastern and European influences. Today I want to share more about ‘Effa’ the label and the woman behind it and I also want to share my favorite pieces from her SS15 Abaya (traditional garment in the Gulf) Couture collection ‘Secret Garden’ and her latest (Ramadan) collection ‘Pearlesque’ which includes elegant looks for Ramadan.

Effa Al Dabbagh – Background story

Effa studied fashion in the United Kingdom and began her career working as a brand manager and fashion buyer for internationally acclaimed brands like Valentino, Herve Leger and Paul Smith. In 2004 she worked as an independent fashion buyer and consultant. Two years later she decided to return to her true passion: fashion design, launching her first collection in the summer of 2006. In 2011 she launched her first boutique in Dubai and was named ‘Top 100 leaders inspiring a Kingdom – Saudi Arabia’s Entrepreneurial Elite’ by Forbes Middle East in 2014.

EFFA

The label was launched in 2006 and releases two different collections every season: Abaya couture and ready to wear (focused on evening wear). Effa is inspired by Middle Eastern culture and the French and Italian designers brands that she has worked for in the past. Her label is for independent, modern women. Effa aims at bringing out the best of the female form, her designs are very feminine. She also likes to experiment with different colors, luxurious fabrics, new cuts and drapery. The Abaya is a traditional garment in the Gulf countries and is, in the West, mostly known as a modest black gown. Effa reinvented this traditional gown by adding in color, embroidery, playing with different cuts and draping the fabric in different ways. Very innovative and modern! I absolutely adore her Abaya’s, they have a European flair and are very stylish.

Ramadan 2015 ‘Pearlesque’ and SS15 ‘Secret Garden’

I have added my favorite looks from Effa’s Ramadan 2015 collection ‘Pearlesque’ and her SS15 ‘Secret Garden’ collection. The holy month of Ramadan is coming up and this is THE moment for those fasting to invest in a few beautiful modest gowns, for the family visits for example. The ‘Pearlesque’ collection includes Ramadan dresses, Kaftans and Abayas in beautiful soft, pastel shades like pink and also brighter, more vivid shades like green and blue. Perfect for the summer! The SS2015 Secret Garden collection is inspired by the romance and beauty of the summer gardens of England and Switzerland. The Abaya couture collection also introduces a kimono inspired shape and also includes bright spring/summer colors combined with traditional black. I absolutely adore the kimono style Abaya’s from the SS15 collection and my favorite from the ‘Pearlesque’ collection is a blue/black Abaya, which looks a lot like a luxurious cape and has beautiful details in the shape of leaves. It is tres chic!

Let me know which item from the gallery is your favorite…

Visit http://www.effa.ae for more information about EFFA

Wishing you a blessed Ramadan

Ramadan collection images by harrycruzphotography.com

The Tour The France is not the only important event taking place in France this week…Yesterday Paris Fashion Week – Haute Couture Fall Winter 2015-16 kicked off with shows by Ulyana Sergeenko and Atelier Versace. From July 5th until the 9th we can admire haute couture shows by designers like Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Jean Paul Gaultier, Stéphane Rolland and many more…

Following the haute couture theme of this week, I want to share with you Mansi Malhotra’s Spring Summer 2015 couture collection ”The Empyreal Ardor”.

Tip: Want to know more about Indian designer Mansi Malhotra? Check out one of our past articles – http://thefashionorientalist.com/2013/06/16/indian-bridal-wear-haute-couture-label-mansi-malhotra/

Background

This collection is inspired by Baroque architecture and the Ottoman Empire. Baroque architecture is the building style of the Baroque era, begun in the late 16th-century Italy. Grandeur and drama are the first words that come to my mind when thinking about Baroque style. A great example of Baroque inspired fashion is Dolce & Gabbana’s autumn/winter 2012-13 collection (designs with heavy embroidery in gold).

The Ottoman Empire was created by Turkish tribes in Anatolia (Asia Minor) and founded in 1299. The empire ruled between 1299 and 1922. Fashion designers are often inspired by the regal attire, focusing on embroidery, luxurious textiles and motifs.

SS15 ”The Empyreal Ardor”

Inspiration from the West (Baroque) and East (Ottoman Empire) were the base for this stunning fusion couture collection. It consists of different style gowns, with the lehenga choli (skirt/blouse) taking center stage. The intricate embroidery clearly shows the Baroque and Ottoman elements. The color palette is very rich and includes hues of emerald, burgundy, old rose, ice blue, marsala, honey and gold.

These gowns are beautiful options for a fashion forward, modern Indian bride or for those attending a wedding. It is also perfect for a glamorous evening out.

The regal looks in burgundy red combined with heavy gold embroidery and the elegant, modern looks in old rose are my favorite looks from this collection. I am particularly fond of the old rose designs, true red-carpet looks!

To celebrate The Fashion Orientalist’s second anniversary, I’ve organized a personal style shoot with the help of several talented people from the beauty and fashion industry. I got the opportunity to work with Indian retail brand INANNA, from which I’ve received a champagne colored saree with silver embellishments. The shoot took place outdoors in Meijendel, Wassenaar. The Meijendel dunes form one of the most important coastal areas of The Netherlands and has the most wonderful scenery! Photographer Patrick from Masque-Obscura Photography was the perfect choice for the job, as he has a lot of experience shooting fairy-tale like gowns outdoors. Hair and make-up was done by Raisa from Almira’s Beautique, she has also done my hair and make-up for The Fashion Orientalist’s first personal style shoot. This time we wanted to add something special to the look, which is how we got in touch with Halima from Halima’s Henna, who decorated my hands with a stunning floral design.

See our behind the scenes specials to learn more about the make-up look (+ accessories) and the henna design!

INANNA

INANNA is an Indian, online retailer which specializes in Sarees, Suits, Lehengas and accessories. They also have an offline space in Noida, India. They have a great variety of Sarees, often used as bridesmaids dresses by their customers. Their dresses are also a perfect choice for those attending weddings. Those who want to look elegant and classy, but don’t want to draw all the attention away from the blushing bride to themselves by going for something too extravagant. A wedding should be all about the bride (a golden rule).

INANNA contacted me in March for a collaboration, which is how the idea of doing an outdoor shoot came about. The choice to shoot the champagne colored saree with silver embellishments was an easy one, as it is perfect for the spring/summer wedding season and looks absolutely stunning outdoors. The Saree has a very natural shade that looks great with nature’s greens, the different shades of brown/sand of the dunes and the white and pastel purple shades of the flora.

I would like to add that the Saree arrived on my doorstep within a week and is of great quality. I fell in love with it from the moment I unpacked it. The top fits like a glove and looks very pretty. The open back with embellished straps gives it a touch of sexy.

Get this look – Champagne Saree Silver from INANNA

I am very happy with the result of this shoot and would like to thank all of those who contributed to it (see credits below). A great way to mark two years of The Fashion Orientalist!

Let me know what you all think of it!

CREDITS

Model: Soraya – The Fashion Orientalist
Photograpy: Patrick den Drijver / http://www.masque-obscura.nl
Dress/Saree by INANNA
Henna: Halima’s Henna
MUAH: Almira’s Beautique

Location: Meijendel, Wassenaar, The Netherlands

Special shout out to Derek and Indra

Lebanese designer Rami Kadi launched his haute couture fall-winter 2015-16 collection during Paris Fashion Week in July. ‘Lucioles’ (fireflies) is a collection born out of a struggle against a fear of insects and the fight to escape this phobia. While in the US, during his teens, Rami discovered fireflies and was instantly enchanted by these fairy-like creatures, who bring light into the darkness. He then realised that insects aren’t all creepy crawlers. For this collection Rami put aside his fears and drew inspiration from the mysterious world of insects.

Inspired by the aesthetics and graceful movements of these creatures, Rami created an innovative collection, which not only showcases embroidered insects and references to the horror genre, but also the light and magic that creatures like fireflies bring. The embroidery of each ensemble glows in the dark!

Check out this video to see the effects.

Innovative, powerful and dynamic are words to describe this collection. It includes signature Rami Kadi silhouettes. Extravagant, floor length gowns and funky cocktail dresses in mostly black, decorated with white embroidered insects, sparkly embellishments, ostrich feathers and fur. The latter giving this collection a touch of regal style luxury.

Fun fact: Rami invested hundreds of hours of work for certain styles, requiring specific techniques and know-how ranging from sketch development to silk braiding, giving patterns a three-dimensional impression. True craftmanship!

Rami does what only a few other designers dare to do: innovate. A lot of Paris Fashion Week designers, as famous as they might be, stay with what they know best. Season after season they release the most beautiful, breathtaking looks but after a few seasons I am starting to get a little bored. What a lot of designers lack is the courage to innovate and to take risks…afraid of losing their success. But…isn’t haute couture suppose to be like art? Exclusive, extravagant, innovative, nothing like the mass produced type of fashion?

Young designers like Rami take that risk and dare to think outside of the box, which is what makes them special and why I look out for them every single season!

Check out my 6 favorite looks from this collection in the gallery…

FDCI Amazon India Couture Week 2015 (AICW) took place from the 29th of July until the 2nd of August in New Delhi, India. Organized by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) this years’ couture week showcased collections from twelve couturiers. AICW 2015 kicked off with a show by noted designer Sabyasachi. The Grand Finale was by Bollywood’s favorite designer Manish Malhotra.

Check out the gallery for my favorite looks from AICW 2015!

Reynu Taandon – Collection ‘SHAHBANU’ revived the sartorial splendor of Persia and is an ode to

womanhood. It includes classic, traditional looks, showcasing different cultural influences.

Beautiful bridal wear!

Manav Gangwani – Le’amoureuse (the beloved) celebrates the sensuality of a woman. Mesmerizing,

contemporary looks, including this purple gown with lace details and sexy low v-neck. The top is

very Hollywood red carpet while the lace/embroidered skirt reminds me of the traditional

Indian craft.

PRECIOSA Presents Rimple & Harpreet Narula – Actress Shilpa Shetty looks sexy and glamorous in this sparkly, gold

lehenga. A daring look, very Bollywood Bombshell! The collection Maharadjah & Co is inspired by the Indian Maharajas and

the nobles of that era and their lifestyle, which was heavily

influenced by their travels to the West. The collection is an ode to splendor and extravagance of

their lives well-lived.

Varun Bahl – One of my top favorites from AICW 2015, this floral design is the perfect combination

of East and West…Classic and modern!

Manish Malhotra – ‘The Empress Story’ collection includes beautiful East meets West designs. It is

a tribute to a self-confident and spirited woman. Each outfit in the collection is unique as it

spotlights Indian detailing on classic Western silhouettes.

BMW India Bridal Fashion Week 2015 (BIBFW) took place from the 7th until the 11th of august in Delhi, India. 11 noted designers showcased their bridal – haute couture designs during the event.

The fashion spectacle kicked off with a show by Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla. The runway show featured an appearance by Bollywood actress and fashion It Girl Sonam Kapoor, who said she grew up with Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla’s designs, wearing one at her first public appearance for her first film ‘Saawariya’ and more recently at the Cannes film festival. Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla’s collection VARANASI pays homage to Varanasi, one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. Also known as Banaras or Kashi, this is a city steeped in legend, mythology, culture and history.

Style icon and fashion entrepreneur Pernia Qureshi (stylist and owner of online fashion destination perniaspopupshop.com) walked the ramp for Suneet Varma during the grand finale of BIBFW. She looked picture perfect in a pink bridal lehenga. Couture: A Love Story, is based on the arts and literature of Persia – The love poems, the lyrical motifs, the decorative arts in architecture, the Persian blues, the soft pastels and the nostalgic shades of gold and rose.

Other BIBFW 2015 highlights were the runway shows by JJ Valaya and Tarun Tahiliani.

Every year, JJ Valaya combines the energy of his constant inspiration, India with that of another culturally charged domain. For his collection The Bolshoi Bazaar he chose Russia. This ‘merge’ resulted in a very innovative collection. It really stood out from the other shows!

Tarun Tahiliani’s collection ‘Our Eclectic New World’ was like a breath of fresh air for the new age brides-to-be in the audience. This collection draws influences from the imperial splendor of the ancient Indian artistry and the immediacy of today’s Instagram-conscious, hashtag-obsessed generation. Tradition meets modernity!

The wedding season…a time to tie the knot with your beloved or THE moment for brides (and grooms) to be to explore their options and view the latest bridal fashion trends on the runway. I was wondering, what is your bridal style? Are you a new age (neo) bride who prefers modernity and fashionable dress options or are you a classic bride, who prefers the more traditional designs? Let me know!

Contemporary ready-to-wear label Aruni is the creation of Indian-Thai fashion designer Aruni Banditanukul.

You could say that Aruni was born to be a fashion designer, working for her families’ textile business from a young age…learning the tricks of the trade…fuelling her passion for working with textiles. Aruni was eager to learn more about this craft, which led to her decision to move abroad to study fashion. She obtained two degrees, having studied in Wales, Italy and her home country Thailand.

Her career in fashion began as an assistant to known designers: working behind the scenes at fashion weeks, shadowing stylists during fashion shoots and supporting designers with their fashion collections.

During this time she also did some designing of her own and gained recognition by winning the Vogue Honours designing competition in 2012, an event which is held yearly in India and a way for talented designers to earn the spotlight they deserve.

In 2015 Aruni took a major step in her career by launching her eponymous label and presenting her first independent collection in India.

Aruni explains the philosophy behind her brand:

‘I come from an Indian background but grew up in Thailand. I wanted to wear Indian clothing but the traditional, heavily embroidered styles didn’t work for me. I wanted to create a beautiful fusion of contemporary Indian meets Western wear to satisfy the needs of modern Indian women’

I can relate to Aruni’s story…craving for a fashion fusion between East & West as a European with South Asian roots. You can only wear your heavily embroidered, sparkly Indian wear on special occasions. Fusion wear is a great way to combine cultural influences into contemporary fashion design. The pictures from the gallery include designs from Aruni’s Summer-Resort 2016 collection named ‘The Denim and Pleats Story’

This collection is a perfect example of fusion wear. Aruni’s modern interpretation of the classic Sari is my favourite! Who knew a Sari with denim elements could look this great. The pieces are very fashion forward and have international appeal. Must haves!

Photography by Prerna Nainwal

The sixth edition of PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week 2016 took place from the 28th until the 30th of September in Lahore, Pakistan. This event is a collaboration between the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and the world’s leading beauty brand L’Oréal Paris. Beauty meets Fashion! The best of contemporary and traditional Pakistani bridal fashion was showcased during this three day event as well as a showcase of hair and make-up trends for the upcoming bridal season. This really is one of my favorite fashion events. The crème de la crème of Pakistani fashion is present: a group of designers who dare to be different, who experiment, innovate and create jaw-dropping bridal pieces. It was hard for me to choose my top favorite pieces, which is why I am posting a part I and II with all of the highlights.

Aamina Naeem presented her collection ‘Bourgeois Mistress de Haute Naissance’ as part of the Bank Alfalah Rising Talent segment. It takes its inspiration from an 18th century mistress named Madame Pompadour and pop queen Madonna. The idea behind the collection is to bring to light the contrast between two women who existed in very different times.

Ali Xeeshan showcased his collection ‘Khaamoshi’, inspired by the struggles one goes through. It is the re-awakening of the hope that one does have the power to speak out.
Ali’s (bridal) designs always stand out, he adds a touch of rock & roll rebellion to his looks, a signature rawness which I love. Remarkable are the matching stuffed animals the models carried with them onto the runway.

Farah and Fatima‘s collection ‘Shahnoor’ is based on Kashmiri Shawls and Kashmiri Art.

HSY: This collection named ‘The Kingdom’ was inspired by HSY’s vision of the different stages of a woman’s thought process:
– Kalajar: a woman coming out in to the world.
– Mahkar which means fragrance and represents the freedom to dream.
– Khat-e-Sahil: a womans journey where she is found on the shore of two worlds, a warrior.
– Sherastan: she is the queen, fierce and independent.

Mahgul – Autumn Winter 2016 bridal collection ‘The Trunks of Sabine’
This collection focuses on the story of an imaginary and historic character named Sabine; journeying into the depths of her majestic trunks, to discover a pastiche of various artisans and influences that Sabine met through her travels, from Persia to the Khyber Pass and across the Subcontinent.

Sania Maskatiya‘s collection named ‘August Dream’ takes you on a journey of roses, romance, castles and kings.

Shiza Hassan‘s collection ‘Aroos-e-Abrashami’, which is Persian for ‘The Silken Bride’, is driven by a celebration of craftsmanship and legacy of the Persian craft of carpet making.

The House of Kamiar Rokni‘s collection ‘Heritage 2016’ stayed true to their love for craft, tradition and the timeless classic beauty associated with Pakistani wedding wear.
It draws its inspiration from the traditional (vintage) Pakistani wedding and the character and mood of the diverse events part of each wedding.

Let us know which of the designs you like best!

Aamina Naeem, Ali Xeeshan, Farah and Fatima, HSY, Mahgul, Sania Maskatiya, Shiza Hassan, The House of Kamiar Rokni

PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week – Photography by Faisal Farooqui, Dragonfly

The sixth edition of PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week 2016 took place from the 28th until the 30th of September in Lahore, Pakistan. This event is a collaboration between the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and the world’s leading beauty brand L’Oréal Paris. Beauty meets Fashion! The best of contemporary and traditional Pakistani bridal fashion was showcased during this three day event as well as a showcase of hair and make-up trends for the upcoming bridal season. This really is one of my favorite fashion events. The crème de la crème of Pakistani fashion is present: a group of designers who dare to be different, who experiment, innovate and create jaw-dropping bridal pieces. This is part II of my PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week 2016 highlights, you can view part I here.

MUSE presented their collection called ‘A Love Like Ours’, it focused on three elemental colours: Red, Navy, and Nude and was inspired by ‘A Princess Bride’.

Nomi Ansari‘s collection ‘Marjaan’ paid tribute to the rich heritage, festivity, history and craftsmanship of Hyderabad. Nomi Ansari’s designs are known for its festive colors and daring color combinations.

Saira Rizwan showcased her collection MADEMOISELLE which was inspired by the vintage era fused with a modern touch.

Saira Shakira‘s collection ‘Zohra’ drew inspiration from the European continent.

Designer Sara Naqvi was part of the Bank Alfalah Rising Talent Segment and showcased her collection titled ‘Sarkash Rajkumari’. It portrays Naqvi’s fascination with Pakistan’s culture, history and heritage specifically with the intricacy of workmanship of the Mughal Era.

Shamsha Hashwani‘s collection ‘A Mughal Mirage’ narrates a childhood memory of the designer: a beautifully designed, Indian carpet in her parents’ house with depictions of the Mughal Dynasty intricately designed on the border. For Hashwani, the Mughal miniatures were animated; bejeweled men smoking from pipes, figures with caps dancing in twirls, and warriors on horses fighting with swords. It was her mirage.

Sonia Azhar was inspired by prints and embroidery techniques in couture for her collection ‘Hypnotism’

Zara Shahjahan showcased her bridal collection named ‘Mehrunisa’

Let us know which of the designs you like best!

MUSE, Nomi Ansari, Saira Rizwan, Saira Shakira, Sara Naqvi, Shamsha Hashwani, Sonia Azhar, Zara Shahjahan

PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week – Photography by Faisal Farooqui, Dragonfly

FDCI Amazon India Fashion Week Spring – Summer 2017 took place from the 12th of October until the 16th, showcasing the fashion trends for next summer. I am writing this while seated on the couch, wrapped up in a blanket, cup of tea within a hand’s reach, central heating warming up the house to a more comfortable temperature. I know it is a little early to be thinking about next summer, but let’s be honest, for those preparing for the European winter, the thought of next summer is giving us a warm and fuzzy feeling. Time for some trend spotting! Spring summer 2017 is all about prints, metallic/shimmering fabrics, contemporary sari’s, boy meets girl silhouettes, ruffles and more!

I’ve selected 20 looks from Amazon India Fashion Week SS17 for you to browse through, let me know which is your top favourite!

Bhanuni by Jyoti, Hemant & Nandita, Shalini James, AM IT Amit Aggarwal, Ashima Leena, Gauri & Nainika, Krishna Mehta, Masaba, Mogachea, Pankaj & Nidhi, Payal Pratap, Rajesh Pratap Singh, JJ Valaya – Alpanan Neeraj (Guru Shishya) Grand finale, Samant Chauhan, Shruti Sancheti, Siddharta Tytler, Virtues by Viral

Season 8 of Fashion Forward Dubai took place from the 21st of October until the 23th, showcasing Spring/Summer 2017 collections by 33 ready-to-wear and couture designers from The Middle East.

My top favourite shows this season are by Said Mahrouf, Amato, Dima Ayad and Orkalia.

Said Mahrouf‘s collection takes draping fabrics to a next level. He used different types of silk for this collection that includes gowns with metallic/shimmery panels and lines. Very innovative and chic!

Amato‘s full length gowns show beautiful lace details, I also adore the soft earth tones and sheer elements. The details on the gowns tell us stories of the desert.

Dima Ayad’s presentation showed several wardrobe must haves, items with geometric cut-out details and sparkly elements…just the right amount to make a simple design stand out.

The collection by Orkalia showed a great use of colour, beautiful silk fabrics and young & flirty silhouettes.

—

Overall a successful 8th season with a lot of inspiration for the spring summer 2017 season. I do worry about one or two runway models that looked a little too thin, I mean no offence, but I care about the well-being of these beautiful women, which is why I feel I should make this remark as a side note.

I have lined up my favourite looks/trends from Fashion Forward Dubai Spring Summer 2017 for you to browse, let me know which you like best!

—

Bold Prints

The bolder, the brighter, the better! Designs by: Amal Al Raisi, Sotra, Zena Presley, House of Nomad

Metallic Shine

On-trend, chic & out of this world. Designs by Ezra, Lama Jouni, Said Mahrouf, Kristina Fidelskaya

 It’s all in the details

Embroidery, embellishments, fabric details, textures…designs you need to admire from up-close: Hussein Bazaza, Amato, Arwa Al Banawi, Splash, Dima Ayad, Orkalia, Amira Haroon

Waist/Hip Knot

Put the emphasis on the waist/hip area with a belt/knot detail, with the right drape and fabrics you give yourself a sexy hour glass figure. Designs by: Mrs. Keepa, Bouguessa, Zareena, Maram, Salta

Photography: Courtesy of Getty Images

Haute Elan, the global destination for modest fashion, approached me for an interview about The Fashion Orientalist and my personal style. You can read the full interview below! Head to haute-elan.com to browse their beautiful web shop and read inspiring fashion stories in the editorial section!

The Haute Seat: The Fashion Orientalist

by Fatima Kasu from Haute Elan

This week we’re interviewing Soraya, creator of The Fashion Orientalist, a platform for oriental fashion & beauty, “a place where East meets West.” She has garnered interest after channeling her penchant for indo-western ensembles, into the creation of a website that explores the way in which culture influences design.

How would you describe your personal style?

I have several different style personas; at heart I am a girly girl in love with skirts and dresses. At the office, I like to dress casually chic with a jeans and blazer combination – sometimes I love to be rebellious and throw in a rock band shirt… just because! I wouldn’t say I’m the most fashionable person – I wear what I like. I believe that style is about wearing what makes you feel confident and happy. It’s a way to express yourself.

Of the clothes you own, what are the items you love most?

Pleated midi-skirts. In spring/summer I go for a colourful number and combine it with a top and a pair of strappy sandals. In autumn/winter a metallic item worked alongside some leather looks very fashionable, especially when combined with over the knee suede boots and a turtleneck.

Last year I bought a Virgos Lounge gown in navy blue with lots of embellishments. I adore their dresses – it’s very East meets West. I am of European and South-Asian descent, and thus the fusion between West and East excites me.

What motivates you?

Perfectionism.

What was the last fashion purchase you made?

A brown leather handbag to go with my beige coat. The autumn/winter season is my favourite fashion season; the colours, the layers, scarves, knitwear, boots… I try to keep warm in style.

If there’s one defining moment in your career, which led you to where you are today, which would you say it was?

The Fashion Orientalist is a passion project; I also have a career in Marketing Communications. A defining moment would be 10 years ago when I moved to London for 6 months to do an internship at a luxury & lifestyle PR agency. It was my first ‘big’ career decision. This period helped me to grow on a personal and a professional level.

When did you start with your site, and what made you want to get into the fashion industry?

3 years ago…I would watch every red-carpet event on the E! Entertainment channel, with Giuliana Rancic as host. I noticed a lot of celebrities were wearing designs by Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Naeem Khan, and Reem Acra, and that these designers often take inspiration from their cultural backgrounds. Also, many designers from the West were doing collections inspired by the East, like Chanel’s pre-autumn/winter 2012-13 collection, which was inspired by India. I thought it was a great niche to focus on as I had always adored oriental fashion. I set up the blog, just to see where it would take me. Soon afterwards, designers started to contact me; after connecting with the site’s aim to celebrate cultural diversity, they asked to become a part of the site.

Who would you most like to collaborate with?

The Fashion Orientalist is a platform that welcomes collaborations of any kind. I’ve already worked with several talented industry people. These collaborations give me a lot of positive energy, whether it’s a photo shoot or writing a designer profile. Anyone from the industry who would like to collaborate can get in touch with us.

What is the one thing that no one knows about you?

I always get surprised looks when I say I love alternative rock music. It’s not really a thing that no one knows about me, but it is something that people do not ‘expect’. People want to figure you out and put you in a box, and when they can’t it confuses them. What I like most about the art & culture scene is that you can express yourself and be inspired by others; no matter how ‘different’ they may seem, you can see the beauty in their form of expression.

The one artist/designer whose work you admire and why?

Lebanese fashion designer Rami Kadi. I have featured his work many times on The Fashion Orientalist. He brings fairytales to life with breath-taking gowns; he isn’t afraid to try something new. You have a lot of designers who just do the same thing over and over again because it’s beautiful and it sells, but they never take risks or think outside of the box. Rami Kadi is a true artist in that sense; he experiments and I admire that.

A piece of life advice you’d like to give to all of your followers…

If you believe you can, it usually means you can – don’t let anyone tell you differently.

What’s your favourite current trend?

At the moment I am looking for items for the festive season, I might go for a velvet dress.

Who inspires you most?

Fashion-wise, Victoria Beckham. Whenever I need fashion inspiration I Google her.  I love her style!

What’s the best gift you’ve ever given, and the best you’ve ever received?

Love… I was quite materialistic when I was younger, but then certain life events made me realise I can’t fix or cure everything with material things. Retail therapy is only a temporary solution. I do love buying gifts for the people I love though.

Photography @ 2014 Roeland Topée | ZinneBeelden

As you may have noticed we made some changes to The Fashion Orientalist website! It looks a lot more glamorous than before, I hope you all agree. But due to these changes I had no time to feature the best designs from Pakistan Fashion Week London ‘straight from the runway’. As Christmas is just around the corner, today I post the highlights as a little treat for the holidays! Sit back and enjoy!

The Fashion Orientalist wishes everyone a Merry Christmas + Happy Holidays!
—

The 10th edition of Pakistan Fashion Week London took place on November 26 and 27 at the Sheraton Grand Park Lane hotel in London UK. The event was organised by Team Riwayat and showcased the fashion collections of 30 top designers originating from South Asia. The latest trends in Asian designer-wear were shown on the PFWL runway, including both contemporary and bridal/resort selections. Famous top models from Pakistan walked the ramp to showcase the stunning designs.

I selected 11 designs for the gallery, which include my favorite looks from the Pakistan Fashion Week London…I couldn’t narrow it down to 10 as there were simply too many beautiful designs I wanted to show you!

I personally prefer the bridal/couture looks as they are a feast for the eyes!

Designers in order of appearance: Aisha Imran, Ayesha Aejaz, Braathii by Huma Nassr, Deepak Perwani, Pehnavni by Nazis Kidwai, Rana Noman, Rizan Ahmed, Sadaf Amir, Sahar Atif, Shamaeel Ansari and Zeshan Bariwala.

Let me know which design is your top favorite and why in the comment section below!

Credits
Photography: Shahid Malik
Choreography: Hajira Ahmad
Head Stylist: Nabila
Hair and Make-up supported by Saima Kiran

We all know the importance of hand hygiene, especially in the flu-season…but we never express the importance of hand skin care. The more I wash my hands, clean my home with agressive cleaning products and fight the winter cold outside, the worse my hands look. Think grey-ish, dry skin, red + irritated knuckles with tiny cuts…yeah not a great sight to see when we shake hands and wish each other happy holidays…I badly needed a solution for my extremely dry skin. My brother pointed me towards LA ROCHE-POSAY. He uses their products on a daily basis and is extremely enthustiastic about its results, having struggled with eczema since he was a child. He calls Cicaplast pro-recovery skincare ‘magic’ and after using it a couple of times, I have to say I agree. It is magic!

The cream is silky smooth and dries up super quick after applying it. It isn’t sticky nor oily and it doesn’t contain perfumes. It sooths and cools the skin and leaves a protecting layer, almost invisible for the eye to see but you feel it is there. I am not joking when I say that after two days of use my skin already looked better.
The product is paraben-free and 100% hypoallergenic.
I would recommend this product to anyone with troublesome skin. Please always research the contents online before purchasing it.

I also purchased the special handcream from Cicaplast which is a lot thicker and stickier. It does work its magic for dry skin and if rubbed in thorougly, feels great. What I hate about most skin creams is that the scent is often terrible, as if you’ve dipped your hands into a bowl of potpourri. This product is fragrance free and also paraben free.

Along with my order came a little bottle of LA ROCHE-POSAY Micellar water to try-out. This product is used to cleanse skin/ It removes dirt, oil and make-up. You only need a few drops to clean your entire face, I used a cotton pad to apply it. The liquid formula is almost water-like, and unlike most cleansing liquids this one isn’t oily (= oil free formula). When applied to the skin it gives a fresh, cooling sensation. It dries up very quickly too. It is meant for sensitive skin and has no scent or perfumes added. It is also paraben free. My first thought was ‘no way this magic water can get rid of all my make-up’, but I was wrong, with a few wipes I was make-up free. Maybe it is magic water after all. I highly recommend this product!

Tell us about your favorite skin care products in the comment section below!