The Fashion Orientalist featured the very first edition of India Runway Week back in 2013. The organisers of the event, IFFD (Indian Federation for Fashion Development) directors Kiran Kheva and Avinash Pathania, created this platform for young & talented fashion designers from India to showcase their work to a greater audience. Fun fact: 2013 was also the year The Fashion Orientalist was launched and IRW was one of our first features. We caught up with the directors, right after yet another successful edition which was held 28-30th of April in New Delhi. The event was described as young, fresh & colourful and included a homage to Indian handlooms.

Looking at the first edition in 2013 and this year’s edition, which is the eighth edition of India Runway Week (IRW), how has the platform evolved?

Avinash Pathania: It seems like only yesterday. It all started in 2013 with just 15 designers participating. I remember everyone around us had their doubts. Was India Runway Week just a gimmick, like many start-ups in the Indian fashion industry or would it become a great success? Today we are among the top fashion events of the country, in just 4 years. If I compare the first edition with the eighth, it’s like it’s a completely different event, but with the same focus; young fashion designers. The first edition showcased 15 designers, the eighth edition featured 43. The first edition had just one show area, now it has two; a main show area and ‘fashion brooder runway’. The eighth edition also had a special area for bloggers called the ‘IRW Fashion Shuttle’. We also had fashion shows in different categories like Newgen, budding, upcoming and so on. The most important change we are seeing as the organisers is that the young designers have really evolved over the years, their designs have matured and the audience is witnessing this growth, it’s one of the reasons the media turnout is increasing with each season.

Could you say that IRW has grown into a fashion movement? It was discussed in the media that some of the young designers of India Runway Week not only showcase their fashion, but also bring to light social topics through their work.

Avinash Pathania: IRW’s existence itself is a fashion movement. It was the first event to change the focus from the fashion legends to the young & talented of the industry. After seeing the success of IRW many events have tried to follow this concept in their own way. You could say our young fashion movement has taken over the entire fashion industry in India.

Kiran Kheva: Many social topics need to be addressed in the society in which we live. If IRW designers are doing that, then they are not only showcasing their creativity to the world but they are also fulfilling a social responsibility. As the organiser we must keep in check that the IRW platform is not misused in any way, the designers’ work at the end of the day, needs to remain the main focus.

In your last edition you’ve dedicated one whole day to bring a homage to Indian handlooms, a moment to promote textile designers. Could you tell us more about this homage and the role handlooms play in Indian fashion?

Avinash Pathania: The handlooms of India are its biggest assets. Indian hand woven fabrics have been known since time immemorial. India was famous even in ancient times as an exporter of textiles to most parts of the civilized world. In history but also in the present. After agriculture, Indian handlooms are the second biggest provider of employment. This is why it is necessary that these young designers use Indian hand woven textiles and the consumers need to know more about its background. It needs to be celebrated.

What are the Indian fashion trends of 2017?

Kiran Kheva: This summer is all about gold, shimmering outfits in various cuts, drapes or pleats. This season also redefines metallic’s & glitters. Bright & bold colours are also in trend.

What are your plans for the upcoming editions of IRW?

Avinash Pathania: As organisers we only have one plan, which is to make the next season of India Runway Week better than the last season and to provide its visitors with the very best of India’s young & talented fashion designers.

The post Interview: India Runway Week, a fashion movement appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

As some of you may know I have been a Herôme hero for the past 6 months. Herôme is a Dutch brand and has been a leader in hand- and nail care for more than 30 years. Every month I would receive a sample from the hand- nail care brand and would post a picture of the product on my Instagram page. I haven’t yet shared my test results with my followers, which is why I wanted to share my honest & personal review with you today. Some of the products I’ve tested have not been part of the hero program, but are items I have bought in the past.

What are your nail struggles? Before I share my test results I would like to tell you about the state of my nails. I have very little trouble growing long, strong nails. Why? I started growing out my nails as a teen, wanting long glamorous nails. I was (still am) obsessed with bright & bold nail colors, which is why I needed long & healthy nails as my nail polish canvas. Trust me when I say, it took me years to get them this strong, they used to chip, split, break, tear…especially at the very beginning.

As a germaphobe I would never bite my nails so in that sense my fear saved my nails. Nail biters have a very hard time growing their fingernails, the nails simply aren’t strong enough. Doing the dishes and cleaning-up the house (with all kinds of chemical products) do a lot of damage to your nails, but you have to do it (unless you have a cleaner who does it for you).

Today my nails are stronger than ever, my only struggles include super dry hands in winter and cuticle issues. One tip I received from nail specialists is to ‘never cut your nails, always file’…if you have nails that grow as fast as mine, you need to cut them at some point, I have no time to file each fingernail for hours.

I am also quite down to earth when it comes to hand- nail care. You have a million products to take care of each and every part of your nails and hands, but do they really work?

As a sceptic, it was great to be able to try out products from Herôme to see firsthand which nail care products are worth it and which aren’t.

Please remember the review below is my personal opinion, others might have different experiences with these products.

4-Way Perfect Nail File

I have been using this 4-Way nail file for more than 10 years. I bought my first 4-way file as a teenager and thought the file was a little pricy. I can tell you now, it is worth every penny, in all this time I only had to replace it once and I use it every week. Great quality file, with four different sides: coarse, medium, fine and extra fine.

4-Way Perfect Nail Buffer

I bought this one by accident, thinking it was the 4-Way Nail File…but it is the nail buffer (shine file). It also has 4 sides to get your nails into shape, remove imperfections, smoothen the nail surface and give your nails a lovely shine. To be honest, I never use this one + it is too expensive. It just doesn’t really do it for me, the shine finish (grey) part is the only part I like.

Super Shine Nail File

It really gives your nails a beautiful shine, a lot quicker and easier than the 4-way shine file.

Cuticle Night Repair Wonder pen

This wonder pen repairs torn and inflamed cuticles and prevents nails from dehydrating. It really is a wonder pen. You apply the fluid with a soft brush. Do it before bedtime for a week to get the best results. Great product!

Corrector Pen

If you are clumsy like me when applying nail polish, you need to keep your nail polish remover and cotton q-tips on the side for when you mess up your manicure. The corrector pen helps you remove excess nail polish. Does it work? Kind of…it isn’t that great and it is rather expensive. The cotton swabs from your local drugstore combined with remover liquid works a lot better in my opinion.

Natural Nail Whitener

This is a product that gives your nails a French Manicure effect. The polish makes the tips of the nails whiter and intensifies the natural pink of the nail bed. Is it a must have? No. Is it worth a try? Yes, especially if you aren’t a fan of bright nails colours and prefer a French Manicure look.

Nail Hardener Strong

14 day treatment to get harder, stronger nails. I can’t give you an honest review of this product as I already have strong, hard nails, and I couldn’t see a real difference. I am curious to know from others what their experience was with this product!

Nourishing Nail Oil

The oil contains almond and lemon oil and restores the condition of dry, brittle nails and cuticles. You can also use it for toenails. Applying it in the evening, for a 14 day treatment is recommended. Great product to pamper your brittle nails with.

World Inspired Colours Nail Polish

Great colours, great price! (around 6 euros) I am a fan.

Hand Cream Daily Protection

This one is very basic, nor do I like the scent. When it comes to hand skincare I advice using the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast hand cream, it works extremely well. Yes, La Roche-Posay is expensive but it’s worth every penny, I recommend it to everyone.

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These are just a few items from the extensive collection Herôme has on offer. They now also do eye and foot products, I am very curious about the latter.  

What is your experience with Herôme products? Which are your favourites?

The post Review – Herôme hand & nail care products appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

Northern European summers can feel a lot like autumn. Right now, rain is violently pouring from the skies. I say, it’s the perfect time to review an Autumn/Winter collection!

The prêt-à-porter Autumn/Winter 2017-18 collection by Dubai-based designer Jelena Bin Drai draws inspiration from the fabric shops and haberdasheries of Paris’ 18th arrondissement. Home to the Sacré-Cœur, the 18th arrondissement also knows many vintage clothing shops and several boutiques selling African and Arab fashion.

Just like its source of inspiration, the collection showcases unexpected materials, original cuts and playful textures. It features versatile daywear pieces and elegant evening wear. The designer caters to the modern, sophisticated woman by creating luxurious pieces made from high quality fabrics. She taps into the gender fluidity trend by mixing feminine shapes with more masculine and technically functional cuts. Sleek trousers meet romantic bell-sleeved blouses and wool overcoats are paired with elegant dresses.

The colour palette includes neutral shades, creamy whites, black, a dash of gold and rich colours like petroleum blue and green. Guipure lace, wool and crepe are amongst the choices of fabric for this collection.

I adore the lace ensembles with sheer details. C’est tres jolie! I also love the petroleum blue velvet dress with ruffled edges and the green sequined jacket. Must-have pieces in beautiful shades. Suitable for different occasions.

Check out my favourite items from this collection:

The post Jelena Bin Drai – Autumn Winter 2017 Collection appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

This year the Fashion Design Council of India celebrated the 10th anniversary of India Couture Week. A decade of couture! 14 couturiers have showcased their haute couture collections during this festive edition, which took place from July 24 – 30, 2017 at the Taj Palace Hotel in New Delhi. The gallery includes my favourite runway looks from the first 4 days. Stay tuned for part two!

Anamika Khanna: Happily Ever After

This collection covers the various rituals of the Indian wedding: the welcome lunch, the mehndi, the cocktail, the wedding and the jewellery. Although it includes historical references, the designer also puts focus on the new age bride, who is educated, modern and has a mind of her own.

Rohit Bal

Hand-made pieces decorated with intricate gold embroidery. Regal looks in red, dark blue, black and crisp white. The show also included an appearance by former model & Bollywood star Arjun Rampal.

Manav Gangwani: India @ 70

Manav’s haute couture collection shows the rich heritage of India along with modern edgy elements incorporated in each garment. He drew inspiration from various regions in India like Kashmir, Rajasthan, Kerala and Varanasi.

“In this collection, I have taken inspiration from the rich Indian heritage and have created a collection that brings together interesting elements from every region of India. I have used techniques silhouettes and designs that together create a perfect amalgamation of traditionalism and authenticity”

Reynu Taandon: CYAN – Time to Find the Calm in the Chaos

For this collection Reynu was inspired by the magic and mysticism of a peacock’s blue hues. The colour palette is beyond stunning!

Shyamal & Bhumika: Couture – The Princess’s Soiree + Bridal – The Merchant Princess

Celebrated designer duo Shyamal & Bhumika showcased at India Couture Week for the first time. A story about a princess and her travels from India to Europe. The collection features European details, Victorian inspirations and Baroque decorations together with rich Indian heritage.

Tarun Tahiliani: Tarakanna

For his ready-to-wear bridal collection Tarun was inspired by spanish flamenco dancers and bullfighters. It has a vibrant colour palette including: old rose, maroons, golds, olive, midnight blue, black and ivory. Fun fact – The pieces of this collection can be mixed and matched!

Rahul Mishra: Parizaad

”Shades of Persian, Roman, Byzantine architecture from centuries ago made its inroads into my thought process when I thought of this line” 

Anju Modi: Sunehri Kothi (Golden Chalet)

This collection was inspired by the miniature art of 16th century Rajasthan.
It builds on the bravery, honor, chivalry and virtues that Rajputana culture has been known for.

Images – in order of appearance: (top image: Tarun Tahiliani), Anamika Khanna, Rohit Bal, Manav Gangwani, Reynu Taandon, Reynu Taandon, Shyamal & Bhumika, Rahul Mishra, Anju Modi, Anju Modi, Tarun Tahiliani.

The post FDCI India Couture Week 2017 Highlights including Tarun Tahiliani, Rahul Mishra & Anju Modi appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

This year the Fashion Design Council of India celebrates the 10th anniversary of India Couture Week. A decade of couture! 14 couturiers have showcased their haute couture collections during this festive 10th edition, which took place from July 24-30 2017 at the Taj Palace Hotel in New Delhi. The gallery includes my favourite runway looks from the last three days of ICW 2017.

Monisha Jaising: Opera

Monisha’s couture collection was inspired by the Opera: from its visitors to the dynamics of a performance on stage. An opera shows both strong character as fragility, which Monisha translates to a dynamic colour palette, from burgundy to rose pink and from metallic to ice blue. This collection oozes glamour and stage drama!

Varun Bahl: Dream Nouveau

Varun looked to the Art Nouveau period for inspiration. More specifically he was inspired by Chezh Art Nouveau painter and artist Alphonse Mucha’s masterpieces like the Le Pater (1889), The Seasons (1896), and The Flowers (1898). The range plays with curvi linear patterns, asymmetrical lines, and floral and plant motifs.

The colour palette is a mix of ivory, pale pink, peach, burnt orange, pistachio, red, and old rose.

Anita Dongre: Tree of Love

“Tree of love is a collection that is special to me. It is inspired by everything I love and respect- memories of childhood summers in the garden with my grandfather and the spiritual reverence for nature that the Bishnoi tribe shares. I’ve married together my love for trees, rich Indian craftsmanship and music into one collection making this a true work of joy.”

Gaurav Gupta: Moondust

For this season’s haute couture collection Gupta looked to both the past and the future for inspiration. From the past he picked up on themes like fairytales, princesses and magical castles. From the future he summons innovative techniques and materials: sculptural shapes that seem surreal. Moondust also represents the meeting point of the East and the West: Indian craftsmanship and European techniques meet.

Rina Dhaka
With her couture collection Rina supports #HonorTheSmile, an initiative by NGO Smile Foundation and Honor8Pro to support the cause of girl child empowerement. The show featured voluminous pieces, showcasing the drama and opulence of royalty. ”make sure to SMILE and spread Smiles” was Rina’s message after the event.

Manish Malhotra: Sensual Affair

‘Sensual Affair’ tells the story of a woman embracing her sensuality and desire. The collection exists of 75 outfits with voluminous, billowing skirts, intricate embroidery, body hugging corsets and shimmering fabrics. Bollywood meets Hollywood glamour!

Image: Bollywood actors Alia Bhatt & Ranveer Singh made a runway appearance as showstoppers, they were joined by the FDCI president Sunil Sethi and designer Manish Malhotra.

Images, in order of appearance: (featured image: Anita Dongre), Monisha Jaising, Varun Bahl, Varun Bahl, Anita Dongre, Anita Dongre, Gaurav Gupta, Rina Dhaka, Manish Malhotra

The post FDCI India Couture Week 2017 Highlights including Varun Bahl, Anita Dongre & Manish Malhotra appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

Amazon India Fashion Week Spring Summer 2018 took place from October 11-15, 2017 in New Delhi. The event organised by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) marked its 30th anniversary this year. The line-up of designers included both talented newcomers as fashion industry veterans like Suneet Varma, JJ Valaya and Anju Modi.

I’ve selected 20 of my personal favourites from the event to share with you today. Spring Summer designs with floral motifs, bold prints and vibrant colours. A trend spotted on the runway is ‘the fusion’, not just East meets West but also masculine meets feminine. Designs are more fierce, which shows the emancipation and celebration of women, not just in India but all over the world. Fashion is evolving, women can wear whatever they like and mix & match styles, just as they can play different roles in life. An outfit suitable for every role, from caring mother and/or sophisticated business woman to belle of the ball…she is stylish in every way.

Check out the gallery and let us know which look is your favourite!

Shivan & Narresh – Verb by Pallavi Singhee

Payal Pratap – Payal Jain

Hemant & Nandita – Vineet Bahl

Samant Chauhan – Sahil Kochhar

Madhu Jain – Kavita Bhartia

JJ Valaya – Dhruv Kapoor

Nikhita Tandon – Patine

Ashish N Soni – Abraham and Thakore

Rajesh Pratap Singh – Ikai by Ragini Ahuja

Shivan & Narresh – Suneet Varma

The post Best of Amazon India Fashion Week Spring Summer 2018 appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

The 7th edition of PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week took place from 14-16 October, 2017 in Lahore Pakistan. The event, which showcased the works of 21 designers, is a collaboration between The Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and L’Oréal Paris #BeautyMeetsFashion. It presents both contemporary and traditional Pakistani bridal couture + hair & make-up trends. This year they teamed up with makeup expert Saima Bargfrede to create makeup looks for the upcoming bridal season.

The fashion designers drew inspiration from their rich heritage. Elements from the past go hand in hand with modern trends. Others took the stage to bring an ode to the beauty and strength of women. What better way to do it than with fashion, THE way for a woman to express herself, especially on her special day.

PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week is one of my favourite fashion events, one I look forward to every year. The bridal couture is to die for, the models are perfect and I must compliment photographer Faisal Farooqui and his team at DragonFly for capturing each and every design in the best way possible. Every year I am having a hard time selecting designs to share on the blog. This time I’ve chosen 20 of my top favourite looks. My top runway shows include those of Shamsha Hashwani, Nomi Ansari, MAHGUL and Sana Safinaz.

Model Mehreen Syed is also a favourite, not just of mine, as several designers dressed her as showstopper…can you blame them?! She looks mesmerizing in every shot!

Let me know which of the below looks is your favourite, I really can’t choose!

Ali Xeeshan – Shiza Hassan

Farah & Fatima – Saira Shakira

MAGHUL – Sara Rohale Asghar

Nomi Ansari – Shamsha Hashwani

Nomi Ansari – Nickie Nina

Sana Safinaz – Shamsha Hashwani

Sania Maskatiya – MAGHUL

Jeem by Hamza Bokhari – Sadaf Fawad Khan

Fahad Hussayn – Faiza Saqlain

Ahmad Sultan – IVY Couture by Shazia and Sehr

Photography: Faisal Farooqui and his team at DragonFly

The post Best of PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week 2017 appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

Fashion Forward Dubai celebrated its 10th season this month. It took place from the 26-28 October, 2017. 28 designers from the region showcased their latest collections. Today I would like to share my favourite looks with you.

Amato‘s collection includes artistically constructed pieces: beautiful gowns & sleek intricate dresses. A signature Amato show, avant-garde meets theatre style drama.

Joao Rolo was inspired by the palatial environments of the XVIII (18th) century. Feminine gowns with lace fabrics, pastel colours, feathers, intricate embroidery and crystal embellishments.

Hussein Bazaza‘s spring summer 2018 collection included a remarkable number: a gown with a corset style bodice and long skirt decorated with sparkly sequins in the shape of Batman. Batman chic! I never thought I would want to wear a dress with Batman on it, but Bazaza made it a must-have.

One trend spotted on the Fashion Forward Dubai runway is ‘metallic fever’: gold, silver, sequins and other embellishments. The more bling the better. This gown by Essa fits perfectly into this theme.

Abstraction and accessibility are two words that explain Sid Neihum‘s style best. He is a designer with a passion for geometry. I’ve chosen this look because it is something I would wear, and I have an obsession with this particular shade of pink.

Mohanad Kojak’s collection includes fierce designs in vibrant red and shades of pink.

Anaya‘s collection includes several pieces I would love to add to my wardrobe, including these two looks. very feminine, with a touch of fierceness. The designs are made of different silks, lace, tulle, a lot of beads and beautiful hand crafted 3D flowers.

Royaled by RH‘s collection was inspired by 1980’s hiphop style mixed with Middle Eastern glam. This long white coat with red embroidery details on the pockets resembles the traditional Abaya.

Roni Helou finds inspiration in intangible aspects of humanity such as psychology and anthropology. With this collection the designer brings together modern femininity and grunge.

For his spring summer 2018 collection Eudon Choi continues his architectural exploration. He was inspired by designer Eileen Gray’s E-1027 house (located in France). Once again I have chosen a design I would like to add to my wardrobe, this one is perfect as work wear!

Lara Khoury‘s collection is very accessible. It includes pieces in black & white but also bright yellow and on trend shimmering metallics.

Sara Altwaim‘s collection is called ‘Salam’ which means peace. I like the designs with ethnic embroidery and bright colours like this one.

Zareena‘s collection merges Arabic culture with the historic beauty of the Renaissance.

Atelier Zuhra is THE highlight of Fashion Forward Dubai Season 10. The show includes white, black, silver and gold gowns. Each one more beautiful than the next. A parade of tulle, sequins, embroidery details, tassels and crystals. I found it hard to pick a favourite. The looks are feminine, some romantic but at the same time futuristic. I am a fan!

Madiyah Al Sharqi has a flair for 70’s silhouettes. This collection subtly references Little House on the Prairie.

Let me know which of these designs is your favourite!

Photography by Stuart C. Wilson and Cedric Ribeiro, Getty Images

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The 12th edition of Pakistan Fashion Week London took place on the 25 & 26th of November 2017. The event organised by Riwayat in the heart of London featured collections of 26 top designers. A 32 meter ramp was custom-made to showcase all the latest trends; from bridal to luxury prêt a porter, jewelry, make-up and hair styling. The fashion spectacle successfully raised the profile of the evolving Pakistani fashion industry in the capital city of the UK.

The gallery below includes a selection of personal favourites from the runway shows.

The runway models are of divers cultural backgrounds, which I love. Oriental fashion is of interest to East & West and in the UK it perfectly reflects its divers society. Fashion unites! I also adore the variety of styles that appeared on the runway from the heavier ensembles suitable for brides to trendy & youthful outfits for a night out. Let us know which of the designs featured below is your favourite!

Photography by Shahid Malik

Zunuj

Saira Shakira, Rija Shargeel

Rija Shargeel, Reema Ahsan

Rani Emaan, Rana Noman

Maheen Shah, Maheen Khan

House of Fashion, Haris Shakeel

Fahad Hussayan, Aisha Imran

The post Best of Pakistan Fashion Week London 12 appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

Best friends Shakira Usman and Saira Faisal launched their fashion label Saira Shakira in 2011. The duo joined forces after graduating with honours from the Pakistan School of Fashion Design. With the launch of their young fashion brand they were responding to market demands. They felt there wasn’t a brand available in the industry that catered to young, modern women. Saira Shakira was the answer. A label fusing traditional with modern – resulting in trendy, fashion-forward pieces honouring Pakistani heritage and craftsmanship while embracing contemporary styles. The type of clothes the duo would want to wear themselves.

The brand is a regular fixture at Pakistan Fashion Design Council’s (PFDC) bi-annual fashion weeks and their collections have received rave review from fashion critics. The duo’s increasing popularity has resulted in the launch of their own flagship store in Lahore, Pakistan.

I am curious to find out where the duo will be in a couple of years, as their designs have an international appeal. One of their pieces from a collaboration with crystal giant Swarovski had made it to the ”Sparkling Couture” exhibition held in Dubai in 2015 to celebrate Swarovski’s 120th anniversary. The exhibition featured the works of 40 designers from the Middle East and South Asia.

Saira Shakira recently launched their 2018 bridal couture collection “Artemisia”. A beautiful collection in soft shades including rose pink and peach, decorated with intricate embroidery. The gallery includes shots from the campaign. The gowns are modelled by Sundal Roy and Hira Shah, Jewellery is by Hamna Amir and photography by Abdullah Haris.

Before you tuck into your 5-course haute cuisine Christmas Eve dinner, let us know which of the looks below is your favourite!

The Fashion Orientalist wishes everyone a Merry Christmas!

Photography by Abdullah Haris

The post Saira Shakira 2018 Bridal Couture appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

December 2017 Hira Ali introduced her debut bridal collection titled #BreakTheMould.
With this collection she ‘breaks the mould’ by giving Pakistani bridal fashion a contemporary twist. Aimed at the modern day bride, the pieces are minimal and edgy whilst being feminine and luxurious. Hira Ali was inspired by strong, confident women, who carve their own paths and refuse to be defined by pre-existing moulds. Her collection is a homage to the fearless and fierce.

A selection of fabrics were used for this collection, like nets and shimmer organzas as well as various blends of glittering silks. The embroidery beautifully decorates each piece and includes chrystals and beads. Unlike most Pakistani bridal designs, Hira kept the embroidery to a minimum, adding just the right amount of embellishments to the gowns. The color palette jumps from translucent terracotta to coal for contrast and is very easy on the eyes.

I’m impressed with this debut bridal collection. Hira understands the young, modern day brides perfectly by giving just the right balance between contemporary and traditional. The pieces aren’t heavy, multiple layered or hard to move around in. I also adore the fur accessories used in the shoot, giving it a regal touch. The silhouettes are on-trend. I am curious to see the future collections from this talented designer!

Hira Ali Studios
Hira Ali is a graduate from Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design. Her thesis collection was selected for the PFDC (Pakistan Fashion Design Council) rising talent platform and showcased during PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2016. She also received training at the prestigious Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris and worked for fashion label ÉLAN for two years. Her couture label creates a balance between contemporary designs & traditional elegance. Hira about her label:

“My new label gives me a chance to express myself creatively with freedom. I always had a passion to evolve embellishments in terms of technique and design and with my own label I want to create designs that I believe in.”

Shoot credits: Model Zara Peerzada, Make-up by Zara Gul, Styling Anaum Hammad, Jewellery by Mahvish Naeem, Photography Maham Iqbal Bosan.

The post Hira Ali Studios ‘Break The Mould’ Bridal Collection appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

Paris Fashion Week took place last week showcasing the finest couture designs from both talented newcomers as established names. Who better to showcase these designs than the crème de la crème of Hollywood during award season, which kicked off in January with the Golden Globes and the SAG awards. The Grammys and the Oscars are up next. For me award season in Hollywood is more about fashion than film and/or music. I look out for all the red carpet looks and hope to hear names of couture designers I have featured on The Fashion Orientalist. I was glad to see singer Mary J Blige rocking a gown by Lebanese designer Jean Louis Sabaji at the SAG Awards. A gorgeous one shoulder gown in black with white details from his Summer Spring 2018 couture collection.

The collection named IŠTAR: QUEEN OF THE NIGHT channels Ištar (Ishtar), the Mesopotamian goddess of sexual love and high priestess of political power, depicting the fantastical iconography around her in opulent adornment sparked by Babylonian astronomy – the earliest recorded.

Jean Louis Sabaji’s Spring Summer collection exists of impressive gowns, each piece worthy of a red carpet appearance. The looks are powerful, fierce. Most silhouettes are sleek and figure-hugging. The goddess Ištar is often shown with wings, which is why the designer chose to decorate the designs with wing panels: from armor-like sleeves, and feathered skirts to dramatic capes.

The embroidery is masterly, giving center-stage to mythical beasts and celestial beings. Sphinxes symbolizing supremacy, mermen: creation, lions: courage, scorpions: fertility, serpents: immortality and eagles: morality.

The color palette is as fierce as the goddess: black/white, bronze/gold, red/orange showing the different sides to a divine woman. The fabrics are luxurious, shiny and smooth, a few pieces include lace elements and transparant materials.

Jean Louis Sabaji has a distinctive, signature style. Fill a red carpet with female celebrities decked out in glamorous gowns and you’ll know which one is wearing Sabaji’s design. His gowns are a work of art, his admiration for nature’s beauty is always present. A Fashion Orientalist favourite!

The post IŠTAR Queen Of The Night: Jean Louis Sabaji Couture Spring/Summer 2018 appeared first on The Fashion Orientalist.

The Oriental Fashion Show was held during Paris Fashion Week at Hôtel de Crillon on the 24th and 25th of January 2018. We were invited to join this event which was organised by Hind Joudar, a true advocate for oriental heritage and the caftan. Her book Les Merveilles du Caftan was released in 2012: a study on the cultural and historical influences of the caftan during different civilizations. With the “Silk Road and Al Andalus” association she brings together designers from all over the orient and connects the unique common passion of these designers; their love for fashion and oriental haute couture.

Hany El Behairy (Egypt), photography by David Tergemina – TRG prod

During the opening show by well known Egyptian designer Hany el Behairy, we felt like we were brought back to an ancient era. It was as if the Luxor Obelisk from the Place de La Concorde opened the door and out appeared a goddess, entering this enchanting fashion evening in quintessential Egyptian style. His collection is just what we imagined it to be, a homage to his Egyptian roots, with an array of designs that reflect elegance, femininity and sensuality. Models walked the ramp in beautiful evening wear: gowns with draped sides and asymmetric one-shoulder styles, each embellished with sparkling crystals. Models wore silver and gold leaf headbands with dangling earrings. Romantic colors were used for the designs, including champagne, pink and metallic hues. The opening of the fashion show couldn’t have been more glamorous and magical.

When it comes to Oriental Haute Couture, the Caftan plays the leading role on the catwalk. This year Lamia Lakhassi, Menouba, Fatima Zohra Idrissi and Houda Serbouty presented their latest collection of caftans. Moroccan stylist Lamia Lakhassi showcased colourful caftans with geometric floral patterns styled with bold necklaces and jewellery and beautiful velvet caftans with organza sleeves and gold detailing. The designs are regal, but have a bohemian touch. True Moroccan craftsmanship!

Menouba by Rym Menaifi (Algeria), Nouf-Couture Paris (Saudi Arabia), photography by David Tergemina – TRG prod

The Algerian designer Rym Wided Menaifi from Menouba couture showcased richly decorated traditional Algerian ensembles. Velvet vests embroidered with gold threads combined with Algerian sarouel (harem style) pants or skirts. Some sumptuously decorated with pearls. It felt like looking through the eyes of the designer to a modern oriental painting, who had painted her own contemporary vision of the Algerian dress.

Moroccan designer Fatima Zohra Idrissi from Fes, the city of textiles and tailoring , presented a variety of breathtaking sculptural caftans in shimmering fabrics adorned with tassels and finished with headpieces. Mesmerizing silhouettes! Her showstopper piece was a breath taking bridal gown in gold (top image).

Houda Serbouty caftans are very feminine and glamorous. They are a modern interpretation of the traditional caftan, with straight lines and delicate floral embroidery. Very chic. The models also wore mesh headpieces and jewellery styled in a way that perfectly matched the glamorous caftan pieces.

The Oriental Fashion Show continued with more designers, beautiful bridal gowns and glamorous evening wear.

This was truly a memorable Oriental Haute Couture spectacle and we are already looking forward to the next season! Head over to our social media pages for more oriental fashion updates!

Naziha

Raishma Couture (UK), Lamia Lakhsassi (Morocco), Houda Serbouti (Morocco) – Oriental Fashion Show Paris 2018

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The first edition of Dutch Indian Fashion Week (DIFW) took place on the 27-28 of January 2018 at the World Trade Center in The Hague, The Netherlands. DIFW aims to follow the example of Lakmé Fashion Week, which has been created with a vision to redefine the future of fashion and integrate India into the global fashion world.

The Indian community in The Netherlands knows several events celebrating Indian culture including Indian film and dance festivals. National cinemas show the latest box office hits from Bollywood and several (national) Miss India events are held in our country. But fashion events showing actual (Indian) designer collections were hard to find. The introduction of such event is a great step forward.

We were invited to join this event and cover one of the evening shows. It included a variety of designers with Indian roots from The Netherlands, UK and India. I was very excited to see that a known name was walking the runway this evening, Indian model Krishna Somani.

The opening show by Amadi Couture, a label by designers Maahi Khan & Abdullah Kashan was one of the best shows of the evening. Their collection included both Indian and Western garments. A modern take on iconic designs from the past. They used vibrant colours including ruby reds, shades of blue and metallic hues. They showcased a very diverse collection including different silhouettes and fashion techniques.

For a moment it was like we were at Lakmé Fashion Week in Mumbai. Amadi Couture’s showstopper design was worn by Krishna Somani. A peplum jacket with long sleeves and zipper detail combined with a lehenga skirt. Richly embellished with floral embroidery, decorated with gold sequins and sparkling glitter. A design worthy of the big stage, worn by an Indian beauty like Somani. A feast for the eyes! This designer duo is on my radar.

Another show which sparked my interest was by the designers from Asian Bridal Haute Couture. Their collection included a variety of bridal designs aimed at the modern Indian bride. It included Lehenga Choli and Anarkali styles with gold & silver thread embroidery details. I know a lot of brides who cling to the traditional idea of a red wedding gown, but this collection shows the modern day bride wears whatever she likes, from gold and popping pinks to mint green.

Our focus of the evening was Indian bridal and couture but one Dutch designer is worth a mention, which is why we featured a picture from her show. Fashcrash by Lalita presented a collection of evening wear. Her silky jump suits in deep purple and black are on my must-have list.

We hope this event gets the chance to grow in the next years, as I would love to see more Indian designers coming to The Netherlands.

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Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) Summer Resort 2018 took place from January 31st until February 4th in Mumbai, India. The fashion packed 5 day event showcased the upcoming trends for summer 2018 including both ready-to-wear pieces as bridal looks. LFW is known for its Bollywood bonanza: a lot of stunning it-girls (and it-guys) from the industry walk the ramp as showstoppers for the designers. From up and coming faces to the classic Bollywood beauties, the final look on the ramp is always picture perfect (which is probably why I feature so many of these moments).

The second show day was all about sustainable fashion. From durable wear to recycled materials and sustainable textiles… It’s a great and necessary step of the fashion industry to create awareness and move forward. Fast fashion is one of the dirtiest industries in the world, which is why its great that designers are taking a stand. Rajesh Pratap Singh‘s sustainable collection in cooperation with Tencel (fabric with fibers extracted from natural raw wood from socially and environmentally responsible forests in Europe) is an example.

A collection that sparked my interest was The Tribe – The India Story by Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra, designed for millennials. A young generation continously crossing and defying borders, physical, social and psychological. Is it because I am part of this generation that I love it so much? Maybe, I adore the designs, they are edgy & fierce. Up against the mainstream!

The collection by Punit Balana really stood out. His debut collection ‘Rose Garden’ included light & playful pieces in beautiful colors (shades of red) with floral details.

A bridal look that blew me away was was by House of Kotwara‘s Meera and Muzaffar Ali from their collection Samanzar – A Garden of Flowers worn by Sushmita Sen. A beautiful lehenga with glittering choli with not one, but two dupatta scarves. The colour & silver embroidery details make it stand out, perfect for a modern day bride. Where can I place my order?

Tarun Tahiliani‘s collection Tarakini was also a feast for the eyes. Traditional and fusion wear pieces with as core inspiration the celestial universe and its constellations of stars + floral motifs. Showstopper Kriti Sanon wore a spectacular nude tulle lehenga, choli and draped dupatta decorated with glitters. The color combination works extremely well: nudes, purples, pinks and peaches. No one does it quite like Tarun Tahiliani.

Check out the gallery for my top 20 looks and give your feedback via our social media platforms.

Showstopper Kangana Ranaut for Shyamal and Bhumika for the collection Wonderland

Shweta Kapur’s 431-88 collection

Showstopper Vaani Kapoor for Nehe Agarwal’s Lost in the woods collection

Showstopper Shilpa Shetty for Jayanti Reddy’s collection Life in Monochrome

Showstopper Pooja Hegde for Ridhi Mehra’s Cinco collection

Showstopper Kiara Advani for the collection Gulab Baug

The Neel collection by Gaurang Shah

Showstopper Bipasha Basu for Reshma Kunhi in the Lotus collection

Showstopper Aditi Rao Hydari in Payal Singhal’s Saira collection

Shahid Kapoor and Mira Rajput at Anita Dongre’s Songs of Summer

Anita Dongre’s collection Songs of Summer

Lakme Absolute Brand Ambassador Kareena Kapoor Khan for Anamika Khanna

Helena Bajaj Larsen

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Lebanese designer Rami Kadi revealed his spring summer 2018 collection on the 23rd of January during Paris Fashion Week. Bal de Rue or Street Ball reflects the era of Nouvelle Couture, a powerful movement that destroys the status quo. The elegance of classic 1950s Hollywood merges with edgy urban street style. Rami mixes old practices with new materials and techniques to create new standards. For this collection he travelled through time.

Bal de Rue includes princess dresses with embroidered t-shirts, dress shirts, hoodies and tops inspired by sports bras. The pieces are decorated with crystals, classic pearls, holographic sequins and feathers. Fabrics include PVC (!), satin duchesse and tulle. In-line with the Nouvelle Couture theme, Rami added a remarkable and bold detail to his designs: hash tags embroidered with crystals on black fabric. They give the idea of scrolling marquee letters, making a statement in sparkling letters instead of LED.

This collection is rebellious, sporty, tomboyish yet elegant and lavish (can I say that in one sentence? Rami made it possible). The first time I browsed through the looks one name popped into my head Millie Bobby Brown. This 13 year old actress shines in the Netflix TV show ‘Stranger Things’ and is already growing into a Hollywood it-girl at such a young age. She reminds us of Natalie Portman, but has an edge to her like Rooney Mara. I could see Millie in these designs. Ball de Rue is young Hollywood. Its Janelle Monáe who combines suit & tie with feminine flair or Rihanna who wears what she wants and doesn’t give a # what people think. The young ones with knowledge of art & culture who don’t fit into one box…or any box for that matter.

We could say Rami is somewhat of a rebel himself. Starting out his career making fairy tales come to life with his designs, but very quickly he started to distinguish himself. Yes, the breath taking ball gowns are still there, but Rami likes to experiment and pushes the boundaries. Ball the Rue is yet another collection showing Rami is one to watch. He is going to keep surprising us. I can’t wait to see what is next!

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The countdown has begun! We are exactly 9 days 12 hours and 37 minutes (as I am writing this) away from The Academy Awards, better known as The Oscars. The question on everyone’s lips is: who will be winning best film…but this isn’t the only important query of the day. We want to know who’s wearing what? Which designers have dressed Hollywood’s crème de la crème for this glamorous event? I used to watch E! Entertainment’s red carpet show religiously and loved the shoe cam(era) they had to zoom in on the footwear.

The right shoe can make or break an outfit in my opinion. It should either complete your look perfectly or spice up a minimalistic ensemble. Another important aspect is the walk. If you can’t rock a 6inch heel then don’t. Nothing less charming than an awkward robot walk because you aren’t able to walk in high heels. The right shoe gives you style, comfort and confidence, which flows through your entire body. With the right shoe you are strutting the streets catwalk-style like Gigi Hadid or dancing the night away like Beyoncé. Slay!

A fashion orientalist favourite when it comes to footwear is Jordanian designer Anas Younis of Aennis Eunis. His made in Italy designs can be described as luxurious, elegant but also exotic and sensual. Every season presents a new challenge for Anas Younis, one that he welcomes with open arms. Calligraphy is the designers signature style. The red thread in every design.

His spring summer 2018 collection Hint is a feast for the eyes (and your feet). Hint is a way to express calligraphy without literally putting the letters in sight, thus the name. Laser cut calligraphy letters and dots are recurring elements. Hint includes different looks, from leather, suedes, denim and sheer fabrics to cork, crystal decorations and embroidery details.

The colour palette includes vibrant shades like zesty orange, candy pink, bright yellow and blue, but also metallics and crisp white. The collection includes high stiletto heels, platforms, block heels and flats. There is something for everyone. The strappy high heels with tassel details in yellow and orange are my top favourite. They are very Gisele Bündchen. The toe slippers with calligraphy details are also a must-have!

Check out the gallery to see all of my favourite looks.

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The second edition of London Modest Fashion Week (LMFW) took place on the 17th and 18th of February 2018 at the Victoria House in London. The event organised by e-tailer Haute-Elan, the global destination for modest fashion, showcased designers from 20 countries including Omani designer Amal Al Raisi, Mimpikita from Malaysia and Fatimah Mohsin from Singapore (to name a few).

The first edition of LMFW took place in 2017 and was a great success. So great that Haute-Elan has decided to deliver the event not once, but twice a year. LMFW introduces modest designers to buyers, consumers and industry experts. Modest fashion is immensely popular, whowhatwear.com calls it a ‘billion-dollar’ industry on the rise. Modest bloggers on social media are entering the mainstream and icons are appearing in major marketing campaigns for global brands like Nike and L’Oréal.

The LMFW runway includes both contemporary pieces as well as traditional attire (e.g. the Hijab headscarf and Abaya gown). It’s common perception that modest fashion is directly linked to religious/cultural believes, but this isn’t entirely true. Modest fashion is also a trend of wearing less revealing clothes, which can appeal to anyone, regardless of one’s background. One of the goals of Haute-Elan is to bring together women of all faiths and cultures and to empower them. They want to be more than just an e-commerce platform but a tool to present unity, with modest fashion as a unifying commonality.

London Modest Fashion Week will return on September 15/16th 2018.

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The eleventh edition of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, organised by the Pakistan Fashion Design Council, took place from 9th to the 11th of March 2018 in Lahore. 20+ Pakistani designers and high street brands showcased their prêt-a-porter collections on the runway. The shows included both luxury evening wear as lawn/voile pieces.

Nida Azwer‘s luxury prêt collection ‘The Mughal Court’ really stood out. From the colour palette including shades of blue but also gold, ivory and muave, to the historical references and regal styles…this show was a feast for the eyes!

HSY‘s grand finale was also a highlight. With his luxury prêt collection titled ‘Knight’ HSY paid accolade to the powerful women in his life and all of those around the world. These women don’t need a knight in shining armor to safe them, they are their own knights, fierce and powerful, speaking up, fighting back and taking control.

Who better to pose as the showstopper than the beautiful & fierce Mehreen Syed, who owned the runway in a ruby red gown decorated with red embellishments. The collection includes a lot of black, combined with fine embroidery and sparkling elements. Fierce & powerful with a hint of rock & roll!

Another designer showcasing a similar theme was Hira Ali with her collection ‘Woman is Future’, celebrating strong & confident women. The models were holding up banners, protesting against societal issues. The designer announced forming a ‘Women in Fashion’ collective that will work towards raising awareness on various issues women face in Pakistan’s society including the wage gap for domestic and factory workers.

All over the world women are standing up, whether its Hollywood speaking up with the #metoo movement or Pakistan celebrating women’s rights. Feminism and emancipation are hot topics. Women and men all over the world are raising their voice! Art & culture, like fashion is a great (public) way to make a statement and be heard.

Check out the gallery for all of my favourite fierce & fabulous looks shot by Faisal Farooqui and his team at DragonFly

Nida Azwer

Fahad Hussayn & Shiza Hassan

Rouge & So Kamal

Saira Shakira & Sania Maskatiya

Saira Rizwan & HSY

Zonia Anwaar & Hira Ali

Mona Imran & Arjumand Bano

Photography by Faisal Farooqui and his team at DragonFly

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The 31st edition of Amazon India Fashion Week, organised by The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), took place from March 14-18 in New Delhi. Almost 100 designers gathered for this event, either showcasing their designs on the runway or exhibiting at the venue. New talent & known names presented their Autumn Winter 2018 looks.

Samant Chauhan‘s collection is an ode to the absence of color. Chauhan tells the story of the colorblind painter Jonathan I, who lost the ability to see color after an accident. Black, white and grey are (unsurprisingly) dominant in this collection. The floral embroidery and bold prints spice up the looks giving the edgy, dark styles a chic upgrade.

Shyamal & Bhumika‘s collection ‘A Parisian Symphony’ consists of silk skirts with floral motifs, statement dresses and classic sarees. The color palette includes deep wine, dark shades of green, twilight blue and seductive black. I adore the skirts combined with velvet tops. It fits the autumn theme perfectly.

Namrata Joshipura‘s collection NOW focuses on technology and the human world. Namrata believes that as technology advances it becomes more and more human. Her futuristic designs express this view. This collection is comprised of sharp silhouettes – gowns, jumpsuits and skirts, each with multi layers of embroidery. The color palette is strong. Electric blue, deep magenta, dusty pink, grey and black. Joshipura knows how to put on a show!

Feminism and emancipation are hot topics this year and Gauri & Nainika go along with the spirit of the moment. Their Autumn Winter collection has been designed for women who flourish in their femininity. It includes dramatic textures, full skirts, enormous 3D hand embroidered flowers and delicately pleated tulle. When it comes to femininity one would expect color, but this collection is mostly black & white. This might be a reference to the #metoo movement, for which Hollywood celebrities wore all black at the Golden Globes. Actress Vani Kapoor walked the ramp as the showstopper in an extravagant white ensemble. My favorite of the show is a ball gown with a 3D flower on the bodice combined with a ruffled black & white skirt made from tulle. Red carpet style!

Designer duo Shivan & Narresh combined two themes for their latest collection: the Seychelles and 17th century Edo Art (Japanese history). Millenials on a luxurious getaway are the target group for this collection. It presents key ensembles featuring signature prints against a colour palette of cherry reds, seychelles aqua blue, coco brown and powdery blues. The show included funky eye-wear by Indie Eye.

Sahil Kochhar‘s collection ‘Chitr’ draws its inspiration from the colorful artworks of Ayumi Takahashi. Takahashi is inspired by the emotional reaction people have towards color and Kochhar’s collection aspires to soothe the soul with brilliance of colors. The palette includes black, dark teal, light grey and pale pink with striking florals in mustard, bright red, beige, olive and pink. His collection is an ode to artists around the world, who through their craft inspire people and impact positive change in society.

Kochhar is an incredibly talented designer who has been on my radar from day one. Once again his collection amazes me. His attention to detail reminds me of Rahul Mishra and just like Mishra, Kochhars designs have global appeal. Can’t wait to see more of this designer.

Check out the gallery for more highlights!

Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan – Defiance by Adarsh Gill

Patine – Nitin Bal Chauhan

Pinnacle by Shruti Sancheti – Vineet Bahl

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